Raif Adelberg seemed almost destined to work in Fashion, what with being born to a family of designers and art collectors. But as we all know, critical acclaim doesn’t come from pedigree. Adelberg has navigated through several professions – artist, gallerist and magazine publisher – before launching his luxury cashmere line in 2011 which Bergdorf Goodman was quick to acquire. Previously, he had also designed the private label Richard Kidd, named after the boutique he ran where it was sold in Vancouver from 2004-2008.
His Men’s collection showed this February 9th in an intimate space underneath the NY Public Library at Lincoln Center. The low ceilinged room had diaphanous scrims where shadow play entertained as the finishing touches for the show were completed. Once things were set, a short introductory projection of ravenous wolves and accompanying abstract wilderness , and soundtrack of Native American chanting with modern tribal dance music forebode an ominous experience. It was a fitting introduction to Adelberg’s highly stylized, but totally wearable collection.
The focus on layering was very deliberate, and beautifully executed. Raif Adelberg definitely has an eye for how to mix and match fabrics, textures, and color in a way that is bold and new. The use of war paint, feathers, leather, and metal beads complimented his designs beautifully; Heavy multi color knit sweaters, cardigans, and robes were worn over drop crotch pants of every color. The silhouette of the pant was notable in that “downtown genie” pants are rather difficult to perfect. Here the leg was cropped at the knee, the calf, and just above the ankle, and the width had a fluidity that echoed the idea that these men are modern warriors; While they might not be navigating mountains and streams, they are not sitting in ivory towers, and comfort matters when a call to battle arrives.
I must also add that while waiting for the show to start, I overheard that one of the models cast, Christian Balelia, a 20 year old from Indianapolis, had come to Raif through the Make A Wish foundation. Diagnosed with sickle cell anemia, his wish to walk in a high fashion runway show came true, a day after his 20th birthday.
–Niko Liakaris
