Interviews

A Dandy in New York

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While nowadays there are many looks for men from the black skinny jean hipster to skate punk to preppy, many of them seem to be personified by a distinct desire not to grow up. Or a frightening excess of facial hair – which is perhaps overcompensation for feelings of insecurity in terms of their masculinity. The Dandy is a distinct look that is refined and is worn by those secure enough to know that elegance and masculinity are not necessarily polar opposites. Matt Fox is one such person and has a sense of style I’ve always admired. In addition he is one of the owners of the Fine and Dandy Shop, an online emporium which offers “accessories for dapper guys”. He was also nice enough to answer  style questions for Style Defined.


How long has the Fine and Dandy Shop site been in existence?

We launched on October 31, 2008. It’s been just over a year and we couldn’t be more pleased with the response.

And how did it start?
For as long as I can remember I’ve wanted to open a shop. But the cost of real estate in NYC has made it more of a dream than a reality. It was just over two years ago that I had the idea to give it a try online. The online world is so ideal for a niche market concept. It’s really incredible the number of people we’ve met online who identify as dandies.

What defines a Dandy?
The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines a dandy as “a man who gives exaggerated attention to personal appearance.” In the modern world I think a dandy pays particular attention to the details of his dress and makes the extra effort to look his best each day.

If someone wanted to become a bit “dandified” how would you advise them to begin?
Is there one or two particular articles of clothing or accessories you’d recommend? I would recommend a couple of well-tailored suits and a few well-chosen accessories. A couple of great ties (or bow ties if he’s adventurous enough), a tie bar, a couple of pocket squares, and some great socks. It’s all about the details. The biggest thing is caring enough to take the time each day to look his best.

Are there any role models in film or literature for aspiring dandies?
Of course there are the obvious in literature like The Scarlet Pimpernel and The Great Gatsby. Recent films with dandy inspiration are Sherlock Holmes and Brideshead Revisited.

Do you think the interest in Dandies stems at all from a (negative) reaction to the modern world or technology?
I think it’s more of a rejection of the trend over the last several decades of casual dress. Casual Friday has been extended to each day of the week in many workplaces. But I think the tide is turning. Even the New York Times wrote recently about younger guys increasingly dressing up. TV shows like Mad Men probably have something to do with it but I also think recession is a factor. We all have to dress to impress (and keep our jobs).

And is there anywhere in particular to go to find dandies?

Take it to the streets! The best style inspiration is seeing the guys walking the streets of New York City. From the older, blue blood of the upper east side to the hipster dandies of the lower east side, the fashion dandies of 5th Avenue to the dapper Wall Street gents. Dandies are everywhere you look!

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Q + A with Helena Fredriksson

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The further I get from the age of 24 (the age it seems so many designers are designing for) the harder it is for me to find fashions that resonate with me. Because I’m relatively small I deplore wearing ruffles or florals or anything too sweet. On the other hand I get bored with black and all the shredded and deconstructed stuff going on. (although that I do own) So if you’re somewhere in the middle what is there to wear? H Fredriksson is one answer. Designer Helena Fredriksson’s clothes are a brilliant combination of sophistication and sex appeal. Born in Sweden and now living in Brooklyn, her beautiful hand batiked silk dresses and other clothing made with materials such as bamboo and hemp are currently part of the Ecolux Pop-Up Shop at Grand Central. She’ll also be having a trunk show this Thursday at Trunk in Dumbo. So I encourage you to check out her work at either venue. And learn more about her below!

What is your background? How did you become a designer?
I started making clothing as a young teenager, it was something that made sense and happened very naturally, I went to art school where I painted and did a lot of photography, and designing was more of a fun side project… that I did at home. I moved to New York in 97 and continued working on and studying art but with the fashion design as a constant sideproject. A few years later I got invited to do a collaborative runway show, and that’s when my first collection and H Fredriksson was born.


What do you see as the intersection of fashion and fine art?
My process when working is the same as during my years in making art, adapting thoose ideas to a fine art context is very possible and something I would love to explore more. The prints I make are made from photography and drawings that I manipulate. I sometimes make screened and painted canvases with the prints as a work on its own.

I read that you have designed for dance. How did you get involved with that? What did you like about doing this? Are you still doing this?
I love collaborating, and dance is a great way to work together to realize a vision. To design for movement and performance where a different intimate experience is possible, is something I really thrive on.

What’s the inspiration for your most recent collection?
Thie S/S 2010 collection is inspired by the history of film. I draw from the lightness and sensitivity of imagery, the movement and subtleness of the camera and imagery within the framing. The garments have a strong presence while still feeling light and understated. The movement and draping in the shapes creates a subtle drama that draws the eye without being loud. I believe the pieces to be timeless enough to be relevant for a long time, just like the old great films.


What do you love most about what you do?
Making the fabric prints, draping the shapes, and creating the evolving identity for the brand is what I love the most with my job. And of course to get to work on different Costume and Art collaborations is always super fun.

What do you find to be the most challenging aspect?
The hardest part is to be the designer, the business manager, the strategist, the creative director, the owner and founder of the business all at once. The necessity to keep creative focus while dealing with day to day business is a hard balance to sustain. This is why I would love to find a partner in crime at times.


What inspires you about NYC?
I love New York because it is filled with people and culture from all over the world. It gives the city a very open minded energy that is hard to find anywhere else. And that is very creatively inspiring.


What’s the best advice you’ve ever given or received?
To learn from everything we experience and realize that the hardest things we go through are the ones that make us grow and understand the most. And that keeping an open mind at all times is how the wonders of life appears.

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Meet Brian Stanziale of SLOANE

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I originally met Brian through our mutual friend Niko Liakaris. We were all doing the “end of fashion week party” at the Soho Grand and Niko was telling me what an amazing store Brian has and about his designs – so of course I had to see for myself!
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Brian’s store is called Sloane and it sits unobtrusively on a corner on the edge of Chinatown. Walking into it you get the feeling that you’re not in NYC 2010. It feels more like Berlin now or maybe NYC circa 1990: it’s cavernous and racks are on wheels or hung from the ceilings with chains.


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The mannequins are old and from various time periods and the desk is a sculpture that looks like haphazard stacks of wood. In short there is no polish or self consciousness to the space -which is refreshing!

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And then there are the clothes. Brian’s creations always begin from another garment -something that has been found at an estate sale, on the street or brought in by a friend. He works with what is there and transforms it into something else by adding and subtracting elements from the original piece, until it’s a custom creation with wit and a touch of theatricality.

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His clothes are like the best dress up box ever but with the fit and craftsmanship that take them beyond merely play. -Although playing is an important part of Sloane as well! It’s not just a store it’s a magnet for creativity. There is frequently a party or event taking place there and the vibe is friendly and welcoming to all comers. (the first time I went to his store Brian apologized for the disarray stating that the night before there had been a boxing match in a ring right where I was currently standing!)

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I’m thrilled to know about Sloane and to share it with you and hope you get a chance to check it out for yourself. Also, we will be putting on an event there on April 17th which will be a party/shoot for their Lookbook. I’ll be shooting it and the entire event will also be covered by Taff! an entertainment show out of Germany. So if you’re interested in being a part of this let me or Brian know.

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Following is my original Q + A with Brian.

What is Sloane? A store? Your atelier?
Sloane is all that and more! It is my store, and design studio, but also one of the coolest places in NY to party as well!

Are you the only designer?
Yeah.

Why remake old clothes instead of start from the beginning?
Because I really never enjoy making the same thing twice. It loses its value. And in addition to that, each garment that I have in front of me has a past, a story… a soul even (I know that sounds a little corny!)

How do you see fashion evolving in 2010?
I see more people starting to realize that it is ok to experiment.


Where are your favorite places to go out to have fun in NYC?
Under Sloane… Aaron Genuth, one of my parnters in Sloane, runs the party space that we have in addition to the store, which pretty much always houses some of the chicest people in NYC.


What do you find the most inspiring or challenging about NYC?
The fact that the city is a living entity.

Best advice ever given or received?
In fashion, if your not hanging on by a thread, then what’s the point?

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Q + A with Tr3y Stylez

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Fashion week is almost upon us and if you’re like me, you find yourself awake at 2:30 in the morning wondering, “What am I going to wear?” After all, fashion week is a bit like going to a week long high school reunion – if your highschool was full of freakishly fashionable gay people and their straight compatriots. So you don’t want to the wear the same thing twice and you want to change from day to evening and be able to be on your feet 20 hours a day. And if you are milling about the tents of Bryant Park, whether you admit it or not you want to be noticed for your chic, unique discerning sense of style. And that’s where someone like Tr3y Stylez comes in: With his own offbeat, slightly eccentric style, Tr3y Stylez has an uncanny ability to put together interesting combinations. And not the generic West Coast “idea” of style ala certain celebu-stylists which make all 24 year old girls look like Stepford Wives in training, but style that feels authentic and individual and, well…New York. Learn more about Tr3y Stylez here.

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Q + A with Christopher Lee Sauve


As promised I’m posting my Q+A with graphic designer, art director and creative superstar Christopher Lee Sauve. So read it in the MUSINGS SECTION. The above video is not the interview. It’s just wicked cool ;)

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Spotlight on Barlow: a new label from the left coast

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Photo from the Barlow Spring 2010 LOOKBOOK
If you know me, you know I identify as a New Yorker with a certain sensibility and think L.A. fashion is a bit oxymoronic. Which is why I also love when I’m proved wrong. Designer Raquel Allegra opened me up to LA style last year, and this year I’ve discovered Barlow a new collection by Molly Girard Coonan. It’s tough, sexy and playful all at once. Some of it reminds me of early Daryl K (which is a good thing in my book) and it all feels imminently wearable on either coast…or somewhere in between! I asked Molly about her new collection and her thoughts on LA vs NYC…continue reading in Musings

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Spotlight on Barlow – a label from the West Coast

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Photo from the Barlow Spring 2010 LOOKBOOK
If you know me, you know I identify as a New Yorker with a certain sensibility and think L.A. fashion is a bit oxymoronic. Which is why I also love when I’m proved wrong. Designer Raquel Allegra opened me up to LA style last year, and this year I’ve discovered Barlow a new collection by Molly Girard Coonan. It’s tough, sexy and playful all at once. Some of it reminds me of early Daryl K (which is a good thing in my book) and it all feels imminently wearable on either coast…or somewhere in between! I asked Molly about her new collection and her thoughts on LA vs NYC..

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ABOUT BARLOW (excerpted from their own description)
The conception of Barlow stems from the friendship between designer Molly Girard Coonan, and muse Alice Barlow. Like their friendship, BARLOW is the dichotomy of “tomboy and vixen”, “sex and geometry”, “his and hers”, “avant-grade and traditional”. They are inspired by the unexpected, and find humor in everything, from marshmallow peeps to Bayside High.
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My Q+A with Molly

What was the inspiration for this collection?
Chino biker, power 90′s and future parka

How would you define your collection?
Cool sportswear. Some cozy, some sporty, some sexy.

You used to design for Cynthia Vincent and also worked with menswear designer Andrew Buckler. –What’s the biggest change now that you design your own collection?
I don’t get edited.

How did designing menswear inform your current collection?
New shapes, details, construction

Your press bio says that Alice Barlow is your muse. What does that mean exactly?
She amuses me. hahaha she is able to be cool and unpretentious all at the same time.

What are you currently reading/watching/listening to?
**the lovely bones
**you tube music videos, Current TV’s Vanguard, Food Inc.
**Kleerup, the new Jay-Z and Rihanna albums, The XX, Miike Snow, Dead Mans Bones, Mayer Hawthorne

You’re in LA but were in NYC before. How do you see the difference in fashion/style on the 2 coasts?
**NYC- Comfort reins above sexy. You can’t as easily prance around in 4 inch stilettos and valet to your favorite club. Even fancy people have to do a lot of walking.

** LA- I’m still trying to figure it out. Lots of different styles- similarly to all the different architecture you see jammed into one neighborhood- confusing and interesting

Where do you like to go out in LA? In NYC?
LA- Music shows. People get into it and spaces are bigger.
NY- Beatrice. people danced on tables and didn’t care how dirty the floor was. Chinatown. Brooklyn always.

What’s the best advice you’ve ever given or received?
Own it.

WHERE TO GET IT

Barlow will arrive in stores worldwide this January including Fred Segal, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, shopbop.com and more.
All photos from the Barlow Spring 2010 LOOKBOOK

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Mad props to The Uniform Project

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ACCESSORY DETAILS: Batwing cloak by Mundi, one of the designers representing Iceland in a competition of sustainable design as part of the Fashion Summit during COP15. Twenty designers from the Nordic countries competed on a sustainable runway show organized by NICE in association with C.L.A.S.S. Mundi cloak worn with hand-knit corsage as hat donated by Dennice Mankarious, and vintage boots stolen from Scary :-)

Recently I was at an opening and happened to take a photo of this girl (which you can see in an earlier blog post) and when I complimented her on her ensemble I was told the dress she was wearing was part of The Uniform Project and that she was wearing the same dress every day for a year! (well technically it’s 7 identical dresses -because one would get a bit funky!) My first thoughts were “how is this possible?” and “how much money she must save”. But this is not just a genius experiment in accessorizing but a brilliant fundraiser for schoolchildren in India. And if you donate this month E-bay will match your donations. So CLICK HERE to go to Musings and learn more about The Uniform Project, Sheena Matheiken who is wearing the dress and Eliza Starbuck who designed it as well as more ways that Sheena accessorized her dress.

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ACCESSORY DETAILS:Bubble scarf and striped military pants donated by Esther Chung. See more of her creations at tornangel012.etsy.com. Vintage granny boots from Flute, Brooklyn.

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Interview with Kink Ador

now in the Musings. So click here to read about your new favorite band.

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Secrets of a Stylist

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Ever wonder how new talent gets discovered? How that amazing jacket in the magazine by the designer you never heard of (until now) found its’ way into the photo? Well Ms. Beagy Zielinski might have had something to do with it. A well known stylist for major fashion publications, Beagy started a unique atelier that discovers new haute couture designers and rents their collections out to stylists. I was lucky enough to get a peek into her studio, which is appropriately named L’Armoire du Styliste. And you can read about it in Musings.

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