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INA at 20: A Conversation with Ina –part 2

This is the second part of a 2 part profile of Ina Bernstein, the founder of the INA consignment stores in New York. Here she answers questions and shares her perspective on fashion and style today. To read part one about her beginning in fashion during the ’80s in NYC click here.
Fast fashion has really become a dominant player in the marketplace. What’s your take on those stores?

I think they have a place, they really do. A lot of people shop now and buy something really special at say Jeffrey’s and then they’ll go to H& M and Zara to get some little something and then they’ll come to my store…lots of women use everything for their palette. It’s like a painters palette – the designer’s store, low-end store, sample sales, consignment shops. It’s wonderful. It’s not limiting. There are so many choices. I don’t know where this is going to go but I don’t think the designer’s going away. Fast fashion is just part of a larger picture.

Are there specific designers that you notice people are looking for?
Well we have people who are collectors. People who come only for Commes des Garcons, Yohji, or other specific designers. But I find that our best customers really look and don’t necessarily pick out by designer but by what they see. Often we get things before they’re in the stores because we get them from the fashion people. Or a bag that’s also in Barneys today but we’re selling it for $300 less.

Do you have a personal favorite designer right now?
Well I can’t answer one. I do like some of what Celine is doing. I like Balenciaga, Lanvin,

vintage YSL and I happen to have a weakness for Dries. I couldn’t wear it head-to-toe but I think he’s brilliant with prints and fabrics and I’ve always liked Margiela. And I also like select Rick Owens. I own about 5 black Rick Owens tops and I find them a perfect basic for me.

I also love Alaia. I bought Alaia originally in the ‘80s when he was only sold at Charivari – which doesn’t exist anymore – and Barneys. We don’t keep Alaia in the store for too long. It goes so fast. But anything so great doesn’t stay in the store too long.

Was there a learning curve to opening the men’s store?
Men were much slower than women in coming to consignment stores. But word started to spread in the fashion world and the business grew enough to dedicate a storefront to menswear. One thing I remember very vividly when we just had one store was women would try things on and be “Oh my God, I am so fat! Look at my thighs! And that sort of thing ..and men would try things on and go “Oh it’s not my size.” With men, it was the clothes that were wrong. With women, it was the body – and that continues to this day.

Who do you consider a style icon in New York?
Lynne Yaeger. I’ve known her since she was fashion editor at The Villiage Voice. She has always been an extremely talented and witty writer. Now she writes for Vogue, Fashion of the Times, and is the darling of the international fashion world.

Right
And she has a style that is just so heroic and so unique and it’s the same as it was 20 years ago. She just looks like that. I really respect someone who is so willing to go out on a limb and have herself look so different and feel comfortable.

It’s hard to come up with someone else at the moment. I think it would have been an easier question to answer years ago because nowadays there are so many people with stylists. You see people walking around looking fabulous and they all have stylists. So I don’t think there are style icons the way there used to be. Maybe their stylist should be. I don’t know but to me that’s not iconic.

I agree.
For me a style icon is…Babe Paley, Audrey Hepburn, Katharine Hepburn…

If someone said “I want to go to a consignment store but I’ve never gone and am kind of intimidated” what would you say to them?
First of all we try to select employees that are friendly, make people feel welcome. My staff isn’t in competition with one another. Our staff is there to give advice if you want, if you need a pair of shoes to try on a dress and you’re wearing sneakers they’ll do it.

But for someone who’s never shopped at consignment they need to take a chance and go and experience looking through the racks and see if they find anything they like and trying it on. Once people find something they like they come back again. They realize they don’t have to spend $700 at Barneys, they can spend $350 at INA.

If a woman is on a budget, where should she spend her money?

If someone’s on a budget I’d say a great bag, great shoes and a great coat or jacket. Because if you have that on you look great. And then underneath it depends on what the work is. If you work in the corporate world a couple of great pencil skirts, and maybe a couple of silk shirts, cashmere sweaters. Investment pieces. The rest of it doesn’t matter. The casual clothes you can make do with very little. The accessories are really important. Women look at women. Men like sexy. Period. But women look at women and everyone looks at bags and shoes. I think for someone who doesn’t have a lot of money it’s important to get certain pieces. Buy things that are somewhat classic that you can accessorize with great pieces.

A trench, a pair of leather pants…these are things that would be good right now. I don’t think people wear that many dresses all the time. You can buy one great black dress and do a lot with it. Unless you have the lifestyle of a socialite…then forget it. One great black dress. …and that’s what we do have.

What’s your favorite place in NYC for inspiration?
Hanging out in the INA stores is incredibly inspiring. I love seeing the creative way many of our customers style themselves. No matter their age, lifestyle and pocket book, I’m always amazed with the creativity people who love to shop with us have in putting themselves together. I especially keep an eye on the younger customers who often forecast what’s coming next. They are fearless dressers who mix designer, vintage and look fresh and new.

Is there another city that you like their fashion as much as New York? – what city and why?
I love to walk around Paris and see the elegant way the traditional French woman puts herself together. It’s not something I emulate, but I marvel at how natural it is for them. I also enjoy Italy. Again, elegant women but much sexier than in Paris, and – do they love jewelry!

I know you’ve started taking photographs in the past few years. How has your life in fashion informed your photography – or has it?
I think all my years in fashion have trained my eye in a way that’s very subtle, that is, I’m not consciously aware of it. I seem to naturally take well-framed and fairly graphic photos. I shoot black-and-white film with a Nikon I bought in the 80′s on automatic, so most of my photos are not posed or planned but found as I wander. I recently did my first “fashion shoot” with an acrobatic troupe modeling furs in Iceland. My teacher is Mary Ellen Mark and she continues to inspire me.
What do you like most about having the shops?
I’m a people person, I love to chat and meet people. And I’ve made so many friendships because of the store. It’s very nice. I learn a lot from our customers. I’ve had customers for so long I’ve seen them go from shopping with their father’s credit card to their first job on a budget to getting married or getting a bigger job. So I know their life very well and they get to know mine.

I love to see them come in looking one way and they put themselves together another way. I really like the idea of the transformation. It’s really interesting to see people try on a new persona through clothes. That’s what fashion is about – an opportunity to explore different personas.

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INA at 20: A Conversation with Ina –part 1

INA consignment stores are one of the “not-so-secret” secrets of New York fashion lovers. They’re one of the best places to find really great pieces by major designers for less than you pay in rent. (no small feat!) The first INA opened 20 years ago in Soho and the most recent one this past year in Chelsea. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Ina Bernstein and learn about her start in fashion in New York in the ’80s and how she opened the first INA store. Like many of my friends in fashion she didn’t get a fancy degree or start with a big trust fund: she followed her passion and through collaborations with friends made things happen. I found her inspiring and I think you will too!

How did you begin?

There was a paper called The Soho Weekly News in the early 70s – the editor was a woman named Annie Flanders and she put together a fashion event at the Mudd Club. This was when Soho was still empty lofts, factories, and all these people came out of the woodwork – probably with an art background – they were making t-shirts, making hats, making dresses – to be part of her event. And I was there and thought “Why not do something with all of these talented people?” so I put together a group called the Soho Designers. It was initially a Co-Op and we decided to put on our own fashion show. We promoted it and sent out invites to the major buyers and department stores in the country and all of the better specialty stores. We held it during fashion week. Thousands of people came. It was this hot ticket. We were turning people away at the door.

Well after the fashion show I thought – there’s a business here. The buyers wanted to place orders but we didn’t have a showroom. So we rented a space on Broadway above Houston and this was our office and showroom. Buyers came and we started taking orders – we didn’t know anything: how to ship, how to price, etc. but we all just kind of learned together.

At some point the problem of being able to allocate money without a vote really started to get to me. As a Co-Op we had to take a vote as to whether or not to buy a stapler! Also some people weren’t shipping on time, some people were much more talented than others and their product was much more finished. So I decided to go private. I rented space on Greene Street with about 10 designers along with a partner and called it Soho Showroom. We were the first tenants in the building and it was so big we had to rollerskate from the office to the elevator to meet buyers! It went fairly well for 3 years. But there really was no downtown fashion industry. The garment district then was really a garment district – that was the fashion center – and the buyers would come into town and they only wanted to come in on Saturdays instead of during the week so we found ourselves having to meet the buyers on Saturday. Sometimes they didn’t have a lot of time and we’d be showing clothes on the hood of a car, on the street…it became apparent to really make it a viable business we had to move uptown.

So I rented space in the garment center and made it much bigger and also had an accessory showroom. One of the designers I repped was Anna Sui, and also Todd Oldham when he got out of high school. But it was never about contemporary – always designer – higher end designer because I related to designer clothes. At some point I went to Paris and I tried to get Margiela but he was difficult to get! I also went to Japan because I had the idea of getting some Japanese designers. We had a little division called the Tokyo showroom and that business grew and grew. We helped merchandise collections, booked all the buyers, did all the promotions for the magazine editors – I did this for almost 20 years and loved it. Unfortunately I moved the showroom to another location on 7th Ave – and there was a fire in the building and we lost our space. After that I thought maybe it was time to do something else. I finished up the season, closed the business and took some time off.

The Beginning of INA
During this “time off” I was walking down Thompson street one day and there was a store for rent so I called the owner. The store was $2250 / month at the time. My kids were in college and I didn’t have a lot of money but I was very fortunate: I called a bunch of friends who collectively loaned me $10,000 and I rented the store.

Ina in front of first store on Thompson Street

Friends came in and we painted it, bought rolling racks and put up a wall for a communal dressing room. My sister bought my first shopping bags and hangers and my daughter did our graphic design. I looked in my closets, and I had all these clothes from all these years – sample sales in the garment district and stuff from Europe and Japan. (When I went to Europe the exchange rate was so great you could buy an Armani jacket – when he was hot – or an Alaia dress in Paris for much less than it was here.)

Then I called about 10 people in the fashion industry and said give me all your clothes and hats that you don’t want and that’s how I started the store. I had never been in a consignment shop. I knew nothing about consignment so I just made it up. But right away I got really lucky. I knew a freelance writer who worked for The New York Times. I called her, and she came to the store and wrote a fabulous article that got a half-page in the Sunday Styles with photos of merchandise and the store. When I arrived at the store that same Sunday that the article came out, it was raining and there were about 40 people standing outside with umbrellas waiting to get in. So I called 3 of my friends and said – “come on and help!” – and the next day hired my first employee. And that put me on the map. I was very lucky; I did the right thing at the right place at the right time.

It took time but it caught on and the people who came in began consigning. After about a year or so I had too many clothes and Milo (my son) and Khadijah said they thought I should open a second store in Nolita. At the time the neighborhood didn’t even have a name but we saw that it was going to be big. I went the next day and rented a space and we opened the store the next month The business kept growing until we are where we are now: with five stores altogether, and one of them exclusively for menswear which is really unique.

We want people to come to us because we’re a fashion store and we want to give them fashion. We want to give them what we think – and they think – of as fashion. I had this woman who bought a designer dress and went to dinner at the Odeon. The girl at the next table said “Oh I used to have this dress but I sold it at this consignment store” and it turns out it was her dress!

Click here for Part 2 – Ina answers my questions about fast fashion, her icons & influences and more!

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Take 20% off on November 20th at INA

Okay, I can’t believe I’m sharing this with y’all but here it is. INA –the best place to find great fashion pieces in NYC period–is celebrating 20 years on Tuesday November 20th and letting us have 20% off  at all locations. (on merchandise under $500) Seriously this place has been my secret weapon for years. And because I love you –or really because I love INA– I’m sharing it with you.

So stop by on the 20th -they have downtown covered and for specific locations / hours click HERE

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SoHo Project + FashionEastA Rebecca Taylor event

SoHo Project + FashionEastA is hosting the Rebecca Taylor’s 2012 Fall Collection Launch Party on Thursday, July 26th, 2012 in New York City. Guests will not only enjoy a 10% discount from all full-priced merchandise that night, but also a portion of the proceeds will benefit Fashion Hope, an organization that builds awareness and raises funds in the fashion industry to help rehabilitate survivors of human trafficking. If I was in town I would definitely go and if YOU are then I highly recommend it!

RSVP Manuela.Beeck@Kellwood.com

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Stripes & Lace

“French stripe” t-shirts have been “in” for awhile now, but the red is a nice change from the usual navy and I like the way she paired it with black lace pants. And of course I love the flatform sandals!

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Two strong spring trends: top knot and printed pants

I see printed pants and jeans on all my favorite online stores but I’m not sure they’re something I can get behind for myself. But when I see someone pulling them off successfully like her, it makes me rethink it. I also love the top knot which I’ve been seeing everywhere downtown.

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Friday Casual mid-week

There’s nothing overly obvious or trendy about these two –but maybe that’s what makes them work.

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How to wear a sheer lace maxi skirt

Sheer Lace Maxi skirt
I saw this girl today on Crosby Street and had to stop her. She is beyond adorable and was really sweet as well. I’ve seen alot of girls wearing sheer skirts with short skirts underneath. Hers kind of does double duty with a fitted solid top part above the sheer below which looks better to me than seeing a skirt underneath. She paired it with a modern floral top (which is not TOO “floral” which you guys know I’m not a fan of) and sandals with socks –another trend that while I know may look ridiculous but I just love.

p.s. and she is not “pretending to model” by putting her hand on her head, it actually was a bit breezy and she was controlling her hair!

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